Thursday, September 10, 2015

York, Pennsylvania - Final trip entry

I woke about 7:30 a.m.; Lorraine got up and started to get ready for work. The boys were lined up by the sliding glass door, so I let them out. While I was sitting outside in our backyard, I was thinking about the trip and what I did: 

I biked 763 miles in two weeks, or over one quarter of the 2,745 miles of the route. I regret not being able to finish, but I am glad for what I did and the great time I had doing it. I am also grateful that I did not hurt myself worse. My hand is slowly healing, with pain still at the junction of the wrist and the hand.

I don't know if I will ever complete the Great Divide, but I did start thinking about my next great adventure. I have found the best antidote to an incomplete adventure is to start planning for the next trip!

KOA Campground, Butte, Montana to home in York, Pennsylvania


I woke at 6:00 a.m., showered, and had breakfast of granola, yogurt, bananas, and milk. I organized the cabin, made sandwiches for the trip, and got rid of my garbage. I sealed the boxes and called the taxi to see if she could come bit early.

The airport was small and had one carrier (Delta) and one gate. The baggage handler weighed my boxes and they were 60 and 39 pounds. He suggested I shuffle the contents to get them under 50 pounds, so I did. I had to take out my sandals and put it in my carry-on bag, and I got the bags down to 49 and 48 pounds. While I was shuffling my gear, people started asking me about my trip and none were aware of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, so I told them you will be hearing more in the years to come.

The flights were uneventful. I first flew to Salt Lake City, then to Detroit, and finallly to Harrisburg. When I picked up my gear boxes, one was split down the corner. All my small gear was inside other bags, so I doubted that I had lost anything but I started a claim just in case. We loaded the bike and gear boxes in the car for the ride home; it was about 10:45 p.m.

We arrived home at about 11:30 p.m.; I took the boxes into the garage and came into the house from the garage. When I opened the door, the boys were sitting there. Norman hung back, but Fred came right over and head-butted and sniffed my leg and started to whimper. Norman then started running excitedly around the house. It was nice to be home!

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Butte, Montana

I woke around 7:00 a.m., took a shower, and had a breakfast of granola, yogurt, bananas,and milk. Since my plans to leave Butte were pushed to Thursday and I have everything taken care of for my departure, I decided to do some sightseeing. I called the visitor's bureau about the trolley tours and the museum of mining. I settled on the trolley since it would give me an overview of Butte and its history, including mining.

The lady at the counter who was processing my credit card asked if my heritage was Italian and I said yes. I asked if there were many Italian-Americans in Butte. She said yes, quite a few. She said there is the Swiss-Italian and the Italian section of town; she said the Swiss-Italians are Italians on skiis. I laughed!

I was checking out the visitor center and noticed a poster with a photo of what looked like a sheep dog with matted hair. He was named Auditor by the miners because he would always show up when least expected. He lived in the barren wasteland of the strip mining area for 17 years, from 1986 to 2003. He was a wild dog and would not let the miners near him, but they built a shed with some rags as a bed and would leave him food. He so inspired the town that they now have a 300 lb. bronze statue of Auditor to honor his life which embodied toughness, resilience and independence, not unlike the miners.

Editor's note: You can read about Auditor and find more unique sights at towns throughout the country at this useful website, Roadside Americahttp://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/12137

The tour was mostly focused on mining since it was such a big part of the history of Butte. One of the main stops was the Berkeley Pit, which is an inactive strip mine. There was a time when the price of copper was so low, all of the mines were shut down and a decision was made to turn off the water pumps - so the pit has been filling ever since and now has billions of gallons of contaminated water in it. It is so toxic that the mine uses various techniques to keep birds away, such as bird distress calls and raptor calls. This efffort was in response to a tragic event that happened 15 years ago when 350 snow geese landed in the lake in the pit, never to leave again.





The main pit in operation now is the Continental Pit, which has a lower grade ore than at the Berkeley Pit. It is the opinion of the tour operator that it was a mistake to turn off the pumps because if there wasn't billions of gallons of water in the Berkeley Pit, it could be mined right now. The cost to remove the water now would be prohibitive because they would have to treat all that water prior to releasing it back to the suface streams. It was likely a case of "penny-wise and dollar-foolish."

He told us about the "copper kings," who were three individuals who started buying up the individual mines. The most wealthy and famous of the three was William Clark who had two mansions in town (one of which that he gave to his son), one in New York City and one in France. Amongst other accomplishments, he is credited with founding Las Vegas.

Editor's note: William Clark's youngest daughter, Huguette Clark, was the subject of controversy toward the end of her life, which is detailed in the best-selling book, Empty Mansions.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huguette_Clark

Intially before strip or pit mining there was the traditional tunnel mining. All over town you can see the headframes used in tunnel mining. There were structures used to lower and raise men and ore into the tunnels. Initially, men used to push carts of ore from their place of work, called a station, to the ore elevator. Eventually, these tunnels became too long for the men to push the carts, so they incorporated mules to do the work. 

Editor's note: Sad animal story in this paragraph. Mules were quite a bit larger than the elevators, so they used to put them in a straight jacket to pull their legs together and, once in this rounded position, roll them onto the elevator. The mules would live and die in the mines. They were well cared for, but unlike the men who would come up and into the light of day at the end of their shift, the mules did not. The mules were phased out when the ore carts were electrified.

Over 2000 men were recorded as dying in the mines since records were kept. Our tour guide's dad died when he was 4 years old and the Italian-American clerk's dad died when she was 10. The tour operator had no knowledge of a record of mule deaths.

Unions formed largely for worker safety and for a reduced work day and, of course, improved pay. 1n 1914, the union workers went on strike and since it affected the non-union workers, they were disgruntled and blew up the union hall. The governor of Montana declared martial law in Butte, which remained in effect until 1921.


Butte, like many mining towns, was considered a tough town and associated with that toughness was crime and prostitution. A number of brothels operated until as long as 1982, when they were shut down. A former brothel called is now the Dumas Brothel Museum (I did not go inside the museum).


When I came back from the tour, I organized and packed my boxes and went out for a walk along the bike trail. There were some workers with septic system-type trucks on the bike path with flexible pipes extending into the Blacktail Creek. I asked what they were doing, and he said they have a semi-permeable pipe under the creek that collects heavy metals from the creek that come from the mining tailings. They were pumping out that water in order to treat it. Butte is part of a huge superfund site. I said, "I guess this will be going on for a long time" and he said, "l hope so, I am not retired yet."

I went out to the Safeway to get some dinner. I bought fried chicken and cole slaw. After dinner, I read a bit of the 1st book of the Lord of the Rings.

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Butte, Montana

I woke up, showered and met Rick and Tom who are riding the Great Divide from Whitefish to Lima. They met on an Adventure Cycling trip on the divide to Whitefish last year. They liked it so much, they decided to do some more! Rick is from Washington state and Tom is from Iowa. Rick said his biggest challenge is the fact that the Adventure Cycling maps have turns based upon miles. As a consequence of riding in town, etc., the miles on the cyclo-computer and the miles on the maps rarely match up, which results in a lot of calculations in one’s head.

I brought my bike over to Bad Beaver Bike. Rochelle and Shane were already there talking to Ed, the owner. Rochelle was having some work done on her bike. When I first told Ed I wanted my bike boxed, he said he has this really big box, but the airlines will charge you an arm and a leg. He asked me if my Surly was a medium and went downstairs to check his box inventory. He said I have one; he said most bikes are coming in at 27.5, not at 29 inches these days. He told me he would call when he was done. Another customer named Len heard me mention i was walking to the U-Haul store and then back to the KOA, so he offered me a ride to the U-Haul store.

U-Haul had my boxes, so I bought two as well as some packing tape. I went back to the KOA and had a turkey and cheddar cheese sandwich. I called Lorraine and said everything is arranged, and asked her to book me a flight on Wednesday. She got back to me and said she could only get me a flight on Thursday. At around 1:30 p.m., I heard from Ed. I walked over and he told me the bike fit in nicely, and he used all the packing material that was with the new bike that had come out if the box.

Ed asked if I was with the big group that was in his shop on Saturday. I told him I was until I fell. He said it was unfortunate that I came all the way from Banff and then fell on the pavement.

I called the taxi; Ed put the box in the minivan for me and I thanked him for his help. When I got to the KOA, I confirmed with the driver she would be here at 9:30 a.m. on Thursday. I labeled my bike box, packaged my gear boxes and did some journaling.

Monday, September 7, 2015

Butte, Montana

I slept with my hand in the sling and it seemed to help. I planned to scope out the services so that I might get out on a flight on Wednesday. 


I noticed there were two bike tourists in a tent site nearby, so I went over with the bear spray that I no longer needed and offered it to them. Their names are Rochelle and Shane, and they are from Australia. I said for such a small population, Australians sure do get around! Shane chalked it up to "island fever." He said they (Australians) want to see what is beyond their borders. They started their trip in Whistler, British Columbia, Canada and have recently been riding down the Great Divide. If their money and relationship holds up, they plan to ride all the way to Patagonia while bypassing some of the less safe areas in Central America.

I walked to Bad Beaver bikes on West Park Street, and saw a large box in his showroom. The store was not open, as it was Labor Day. I then walked to Harrison Street to go to the U-Haul store to see what boxes they had for the rest of my gear, all the while noticing and photographing (with my phone) the beautiful architecture of some of the buildings. It is obvious that at one time there was some money in this town.




I stopped by the CVS because I forgot to to put on sunscreen and I knew I would be walking for awhile. I found the U-Haul store on Harrison Street and it looked like they had the large boxes I was looking for. I then continued down Harrison to check out The Outdoorsman, the other bike shop in town. I looked in the glass window and noticed their bike repair shop, so perhaps they box bikes as well. Finally, I went down to Walmart to check out their selection of bike boxes, in case the bike shops did not have what I need. However, their boxes were too small. I walked back to the KOA. I got about 4 3/4 hours of exercise.

The stores will be open tomorrow, so I intend to be at Bad Beaver Bikes when they open at 10:00 a.m.

Sunday, September 6, 2015

KOA Campground, Butte, Montana to KOA Campground, Butte, Montana

Statistics
Distance: 27.8 miles 
Average Speed: 11.3 mph
Hours Riding: 2 hours 27 minutes
Calories: Not applicable
Total Ascent: Not applicable
Total Descent: - Not applicable

Today my life was like a country and western song - but more about that in a minute...  

I woke at 6:00 a.m. and today's breakfast featured French toast; i also had granola, yogurt and some chocolate milk. I woke a little earlier so that I might get out when everyone leaves, since my GPS has been hit or miss. However, I did not get out on time so I was riding alone and the GPS track was leading me on a wild goose chase.

I hailed a guy in a truck asking him how to get to Route 2 and he gave me turn-by-turn directions with landmarks. I followed his suggestions, but when referencing the map, it did not seem right. Meanwhile, Sue and Joel came by and they were pretty sure they were on route, so I started to ride with them. 


We were riding along route 2, I was behind them and then I went down. My left handle bar and camera hit the ground, and my right hand let go of the phone as I used my hand to break my fall. Despite that fact, I did hit my helmet on the front left side, but not as hard as if I did not break the fall with my right hand. Sue and Joel came over to check on me;  my right pinky and thumb were scraped but otherwise felt fine. Sue gave me a couple of band-aids, and Joel asked what day it was and who the president was. Sue said, "We are doing the main route so we need to get going," and they took off.

I checked my camera and it looked like the lens was broken because the camera body did not recognize it. I fixed several disheveled items on my bike and was started riding again. I saw a white pit bull heading from the curb toward me, so I sped up and and outpaced him. I stopped to take a photo with my phone and Rob, our guide, and Justin, the new participant, sped by.


My hand started to hurt and i was losing strength in it. My GPS instructed me to turn off the road and over a cliff. I didn't follow. I came to what I thought was the turn-off at Thompson Park but was not sure, and my hand had reached a new level of pain and weakness. My hand was so weak, I could not pull the lever for the brake. 

I called Sean and told him about my hand and that I didn't think it wise for me to continue, given the circumstances. I told him I would go back to the KOA and visit the hospital in Butte for an assessment. He suggested riding with them in the van and seeing how I did, but I knew this was going to take awhile to heal and the next jump-off point was in the Grand Tetons of Wyoming. I wanted to get some treatment for my hand right away since I make my living with my hands.

When i got back to Butte, my hand was even worse despite riding essentially with one hand. I called the KOA and they had a cabin available, so I took it for the next two nights. I then called Sean and told him I was now sure I could not continue and to drop off my bags to the KOA campground while I was at the hospital.


After getting settled in the cabin, I walked into town to the hospital, and to my surprise and delight, I was seen right away. Dr. Hibbs checked out my hand and had it x-rayed, and told me there were no breaks that he could see but I likely have a ligament and tendon damage. He said it could take 4-10 weeks to heal. He also gave me a note for my travel insurance indicating that I could not continue to ride my bike. Ashley, the billing assistant, provided me with paperwork that she signed in lieu of my signature since I could not operate a pen. She will send the bill directly to my travel insurance company.

I walked back to the cabin; my bags were in my room and the room was warm. I called Sean to thank him for dropping off the bags and I asked him to extend my goodbyes to the rest of the group. He said he would, and Andy asked him to extend his goodbye to me.

I went out for groceries at the Safeway and came back and had fried chicken and potato wedges for dinner. I called Lorraine, did some reading and went to bed.

Saturday, September 5, 2015

Rest day in Butte, Montana

It rained much of the night and there was lightning as well. The lightning appeared to be within 5 miles of us. At one point, the rain was coming down real hard and as it turns out, it was hail and or sleet. I know because the sleet or hail could be found around the outside of my tent.


It was raining in the morning and I needed to use the restroom, so I put on my rain pants and jacket and put on my hydrosocks and sandals. I brought my powerstrip and charged my devices as I washed my softshell jackets. Afterwards, I sprayed them with Nikwax to keep them waterproof.





I took a taxi into town and had them take me to the public library. I asked the driver about places to eat, and he said there is a new place on the corner. It is a chain restaurant called Pita Pocket. I ordered steak and eggs, and I thought they told me to have a seat. I was waiting for awhile until I asked and was told to get in line to have the clerk make a personalized pita pocket kind of like at Chipotle. It was very big and tasty.

I went over to the library and started picking photos to email to Lorraine. I was there from 1:00 p.m. until closing at 5:00 p.m. One of the computer web surfers was watching music videos and muttering to himself, so much so that two separate librarians came over to ask him if he knew he was talking to himself.

I went back to the Pita Pocket and had a gyro pocket, and then I called for a taxi. I met Justin from England, who is starting with us tomorrow.

I asked Frank the mechanic to check out my brakes because when I pulled the levers, they almost hit my hand grips. He adjusted the calipers so that they were equidistant from the brake pads. He said the pads were ok. I also had him check my chain and he said it is still good, but we should change it a little earlier than needed to protect the cassette. He said the rear tire still looks good. He said wearing off of the knobs is not an indicator of when it needs to be replaced, it is the base that is most important.

I did some journaling and some organizing. We ride tomorrow, and Harry from the Netherlands will ride on the paved section.