Swan Lake Trading Post & Campground, Swan Lake, Montana to USDA Forest Service Campground, Holland Lake, Montana

Statistics

Distance: 54.5 miles 

Average Speed: 10.1 mph

Hours Riding: 5 hours 20 minutes

Calories: 3240

Total Ascent: 5942 feet

Total Descent: - 4997 feet

I woke at 6:50 a.m. and started taking down my wet tent. Breakfast was at 8:00 a.m. and we left by 9:15 a.m. 

I rode out with the group and settled into a pace with Andy. Our GPS units were giving opposite information, and we realized that Andy had the GPS track for yesterday. Once corrected, our Garmins were in sync.

Lunch was at about 37 miles, a little longer ride than usual but very good nonetheless. We mostly rode on forest service paths and the scenery was beautiful. It was especially nice because the smoke from the fires did not obscure the mountains.

A number of people saw grizzly tracks in fresh mud, and Sue and Joel saw a black bear at a distance. We arrived at camp at about 4:30 pm. It is a beautiful site with the exquisite Holland Lake.

Dinner was pasta with meat sauce with wine, and it was delicious. We had some cookies and melons for desert.

The previous night, I was given the moose mascot to carry on my bike; it is tradition to pass it along to some other deserving person and tell a story about the passing. To give some context, the moose or as we call him, "the moosie" fell off my bike at some point today and Sue retrieved it for me.

The following is a synopsis of my speech:
"Now is the moosie hour. There have been rumors that I lost the moosie, but the truth is that he escaped. I know this because he told me. He said he wanted to leave because of the long hours, the wet and difficult conditions, and the poor pay. Once off the bike, he made his way back into the forest and was heading to his home among the woodland elves. Then he remembered what his mama moose taught him - you finish what you start. So he made his way back to the road so that he could be found (and ultimately brought back to me) and he told me this story. Because he lives with the woodland elves, he is a magical moosie and he has the power of healing. He heard about Harry's fall and requested to be with him to use his healing powers, so that Harry may get back on his bike to ride and continue with the trip." The moosie was then passed onto Harry to an enthusiastic applause.

Tomorrow is another interrupted day because of the forest fires, so we will likely be riding on the road.

Whitefish RV Park, Whitefish, Montana to Swan Lake Trading Post & Campground, Swan Lake, Montana

Statistics

Distance: 67.8 miles 

Average Speed: 11.1 mph

Hours Riding: 6 hours 2 minutes

Calories: 3528

Total Ascent: 4383 feet

Total Descent: - 4331 feet

I woke at 6:30 a.m. and started breaking down camp. Breakfast was at about 8:00 a.m.. Rob, the owner of Bike Dreams, made a shocking announcement that all the staff quit - Sophia the cook, Gordon the bike mechanic, and Marka the driver. It started after the dinner in Whitefish when Sophia bought Kentucky Fried Chicken and potato salad as a meal. One of the participants complained, and when Sophia was told that was not really what we paid for, she quit on the spot. No notice at all. Apparently there were problems, but that event was the spark or excuse. I think Gordon's leaving was also on bad terms. I don't know about Marka. Sean said they are looking for people and not to worry as they would pick up the slack, but all the participants also pitched in to help.

After breakfast, we took the group photo. I rode out with Harry but I was dropping back more than usual for photo opportunities. There were lots of classic landscapes and homesteads to capture.

Andy had a flat so we stopped to see if he needed help. I loaned him my air pump which had more capacity. Andy rode with us afterwards.

We stopped for lunch at about 43 miles and I had a turkey sandwich, a Nutella and peanut butter sandwich, and half a donut.

After lunch, I spoke with 3 guys I had met previously that are also riding the Great Divide, only they are doing it unsupported (in other words, they carry all their gear on their bikes). Their names are Wes, Matt and Seth and they are from San Diego, Bucks County PA, and Colorado. They met as instructors at an adventure camp in New Hampshire. One taught climbing, the other taught tennis and i can't remember what the third taught.

I came across three little kids selling lemonade and other drinks, so I plunked down my 50 cents to get a fresh lemonade. I told them to keep up the entrepreneurial spirit and they would go far!

I caught up with Harry and Andy; Andy was having trouble on the inclines and he was walking a bit, so I hung back with him. We heard a thunderclap and down came the rain.

We got into camp at about 5:00 p.m. and it was raining, so I had some vegetable soup and crackers instead of setting up my tent. I found out that Harry from the netherlands had a low speed fall, but hurt his leg and was walking with a crutch. He will take off a couple days from riding and see how he does.

The rain finally stopped, and I got my tent set up and took a shower before journaling and going to bed.

Rest day in Whitefish, Montana

Statistics

None for today

I woke around 7:00 a.m. and shaved off the beginings of my beard, then did my laundry and hung it to dry. I organized my gear and then rode into town for an additional tube and some fishing line to replace my fraying lens cap security line.

I came back to camp and backed up my phtos to the backup drive, then attempted to download the photos to my phone, to no avail. I decided to concentrate on typing and sending my journal to Lorraine. I started at camp but also visited McDonalds to use the wi-fi and get a bite to eat.

I hope to clean off my bike with a hose and lube the chain, and put away my laundry as well.

There is a new rider from Australia named Andy - he is a very nice guy. I think we may have some other new riders as well. Tomorrow we take our official group photo and ride on to Swan Lake.

North Fork Hostel & Inn, Polebridge, Montana to Whitefish RV Park, Whitefish, Montana

Statistics

Distance: 47.2 miles 

Average Speed: 11.9 mph

Hours Riding: 3 hours 55 minutes

Calories: 2289

Total Ascent: 2189 feet

Total Descent: - 2670 feet

Last night before going to bed, I spoke to Rob about how to create the GPX files for the Garmin, and he pointed me toward bikemap.net. He said it has all the tools needed to create the files.

At twilight last night, we had two 3-year-old grizzly bears in the campground sniffing around for food. Grizzly mothers normally kick their offspring out of their territory after they are 2 years old, and they will travel together for a time. Sean, one of our guides, shooed them out of camp with his voice and flashlight, being careful not to get too close.

I got up at about 6:30 a.m., had a breakfast of steak and eggs and some granola, yogurt and milk. We were off at about 8:00 a.m. We mostly rode on washboarded gravel roads, with one detour onto a forest service road.

As soon as I parked my bike in camp, the tire went flat. I have a kevlar liner that is supposed to prevent flats but in this case, it caused the puncture. I could see the impression from the liner and that is where the puncture was. I looked at the previous tube and apparently the liner also caused that puncture as well.

I put in a new tube, removed the liner, and rode into town to buy some self-sealing tubes. I picked up three tubes and installed them, so I should be set. My rear tire is getting a little worn, so I have to keep an eye on that tire.

I spoke with Lorraine to see how she was doing and to let her know I was fine. Since we have had difficulty sending photos, she suggested downloading and emailing them so i am going to try that tomorrow.

Ksanka Motel & Motel, Eureka, Montana to North Fork Hostel & Inn, Polebridge, Montana

Statistics

Distance: 75.4 miles 

Average Speed: 10.6 mph

Hours Riding: 7 hours 5 minutes

Calories: 4150

Total Ascent: 6466 feet

Total Descent: - 5607 feet

I woke at 6:15 a.m. and started getting ready. Harry and I rode out together at about 8:30 a.m.. A new person from Ohio, Dave Eifert, joined us for the rest of the trip.

This route is an alternate route because the rangers closed a section of the Great Divide due to the wildfires. Rob from the Netherlands, who is also one of the guides and the co-owner of the company, created new GPX files for our Garmin bike GPS's. The files creates a route to follow and warns you when off route. Essentially, all you need to do is follow the red line; the system takes much of the risk and concern out of getting lost in a remote area without the equipment needed to survive.

We had lunch about 2/3 of the way down the route. I had a turkey and cheese sandwhich, as well as a Nutella and peanut butter sandwich, and a glass.of Coke. I normally don't eat so much sugar or starch, but my body demands it in order to perform at this level. I also started using Gatorade which helps keep me going between meals.

After lunch, we had a climb that just would not quit. I can't remember how high the pass was, but the climb was at least 5000 feet. The thing that kept me going was that I knew there was a long downhill on the other side.

We made it into camp about 5:00 p.m. and had broccoli and pea soup. I also had another glass of Coke which helped to rejuvenate me.

I was able to take a nice hot shower and then we had a meal of salmon, rice and cole slaw. I had a second helping of salmon.

I talked to Sean about his negotiations with the various government agencies in the U.S. and Canada for future Great Divide trips.

Tomorrow we ride to Whitefish, Montana. It will be a relatively short ride and the next day is a rest day. I am going to do laundry, type up my journals to send to Lorraine, and hopefully do a workaround to get my photos to Lorraine for this blog.

Ram Wigwam Campground, Flathead River Valley, B.C., Canada to Ksanka Motel & Motel, Eureka, Montana, USA

Statistics

Distance: 41.6 miles 

Average Speed: 8.3 mph

Hours Riding: 4 hours 58 minutes

Calories: Not available

Total Ascent: Not available

Total Descent: - Not available

I woke at about 6:30 am, had breakfast, took down camp, and headed out by 8:00 a.m. with David Galagher from the UK. It was a very tranquil experience on the trail, with the sun just coming up and the play of light beams through the trees.

Harry Brown caught up to us and we rode together the rest of the way. We made a sharp right turn marked by cairns. It was a very difficult single track with frequent stream and puddle crossings.

Charlotte showed me a series of pictures of herself going over the handlebars into a puddle. She asked Gordon to take a picture of her puddle crossing and said, "Watch, I'll probably fall in!" which is exactly what happened. Charlotte is from the UK but lives in Austrailia. She found out about the trip because her sister dates Sean, one of the guides.

The ascent was so steep at one point that Harry and I had to help one another carry the bikes.  At the top, I noticed a greater resistance in pedaling and that was because my rear tire was low. I pumped it up again and it went down quite fast. I decided to change the tube and harry loaned me his.

The climb to the top of the pass seemed to go on forever, and it topped off at 6,200 feet in elevation. The downhill was equally long, so my brakes needed to be applied almost constantly.

We stopped at the lunch spot, which was most of the way down the hill. I had a turkey sandwich, potato chips, a couple apples, and some water.

We finished the rest of the downhill and headed toward the US border crossing; we crossed without incident. We then rode into Eureka to the Ksanka Store and Motel. I shared a room with Norm, who is from Cleveland, OH. Norm grew up in an Amish commuity until he was 14 when his parents decided to leave. His experience was a goood one that taught him the value of hard work and self reliance.

A group of us went out for burgers at the local casino and restaurant. No one was at the gaming tables, likely because the townspeople of this logging community didn't appear to be doing very well.

Tomorrow we ride an alternate route because of the forest fires. The result of the fires for us is not only a route change but a cloud of smoke in the air and smoker's coughs.

Mountain Shadow Campground, Sparwood, B.C., Canada to Ram Wigwam Campground, Flathead River Valley, B.C., Canada

Statistics

Distance: 85.35 miles (rode 81.6, van 3.75) 

Average Speed: 10.66 mph

Hours Riding: 8 hours

Calories: 4446

Total Ascent: 6430 feet

Total Descent: - 6473 feet

I got up at 6:15 a.m., as i didn 't hear my alarm go off at 6:00. I had cereal, yogurt, fruit and milk for breakfast.

I got on the road by 8:00 a.m. and biked with Harry Brown for much of the day. We were riding on pavement at first, and during those parts, we made good time. But then parts of the road converged with a river bed and it was so bad that it was best to walk the bike.

We had lunch at the Lower Harvey Creek Recreational Site. I had a turkey sandwich, a hard boiled egg, and Fig Newtons. I also took along some Cliff bars.

We saw some birds that a crewmember from Canada told us were called prairie chickens. He said he used to hunt them as a young man.

At about 75 miles, just prior to the final pass, I started feeling weak and unfocused. The van came along and offered me a ride to the end, or for a distance of my choosing. At the time, I was thinking that I would ride in the van to the end, but after some food and drink, I felt better so I got off at the pass and rode mostly downhill for the next 15 miles. I felt fine after the ride, so I concluded that i was dehydrated and my blood sugar was low.

We met up with the rest of the group at the Ram Wigwam Recreational Site. It is a primitive site with only a portable toilet. The river was right there for those that wanted to brave the cold water to clean up.

Our chef, Sophia, is creating better dishes every day. Tonight we had shepherd's pie with green beans and salad. She also served beer for those that were interested.

Elkford Municipal Campground, British Columbia, Canada to Mountain Shadow Campground, Sparwood, British Columbia, Canada

Statistics

Distance: 30.8 miles

Average Speed: 10.1 mph

Hours Riding: 3 hours 1 minute

Calories: 1555

Total Ascent: 1870 feet

Total Descent: - 2379 feet

Breakfast did not start this morning until 8:00 am, so I got up at 6:45 am. I had eggs with sausage and veggies - it was very good!

We saw a mama deer and her two littles ones in the campground. The young ones were kicking up their heels and chasing one another, while the mother was licking some residue off a plastic bag.

We started riding at about 9:00 am. The initial climb was long and steep, and then we turned onto a dirt trail. I came to a fork and was unsure which way to go. Norm and Michael came along and by trial and error, we figured it out. From the dirt road, we turned onto some single track that was quite steep and narrow. Portions of it we needed to walk.

We passed a large decommissioned coal truck in Sparwood that I remember reading could hold up to 50 tons of coal. We rode into camp at about 1:00 pm and had a nice spread of food in front of us. The soup was vegetable with ham. The cook, Sophia, normally works in a large kitchen where she feeds 1000 people per day, with the help of 50 people that assist her. She said this job on the Great Divide is harder, but she feels privileged to be here.

Tomorrow, we ride to Flathead River, British Columbia

Canyon Campground, Kananaskis Lake, Alberta, Canada to Elkford Municipal Campground, British Columbia, Canada

Statistics

Distance: 54.8 miles

Average Speed: 9.5 mph

Hours Riding: 5 hours 43 minutes

Calories: 2508

Total Ascent: 3465 feet

Total Descent: - 4941 feet

I woke at 6:00 am to the sound of my watch alarm. I dressed, and packed my bags and took down my tent. The temperature was 30 degrees F. It was cold at night, so I put on more clothes and broke out the sleeping bag liner.

I rode my bike to the breakfast spot and had some cereal with yogurt and fruit. We also needed to make our lunch because there would be no place for the van to meet us for lunch. I made a couple of turkey sandwhiches, and brough Cliff bars and some fruit.

We left at about 8:30 am. The scenery was spectacular. The first two climbs were steep enough that I needed to walk my bike. I rode most of the day with Harry Brown of Austrailia. He is in the process of retiring from the Austrailian Department of Defense. He is going on another Bike Dreams trip to Africa.

A bunch of us stopped at a picnic area for lunch by a stream with the peaceful sound of the water relaxing us as we ate. We came across some domestic horses and mules grazing.

I had a mishap with my bear spray as I rode down a steep hill. When I hit a bump, my canister flew out of my handlebar bag and the safety came off, never to be found. I fashioned a makeshift safety out of cardboard, duct tape and shock cord.

I rode into town and found the municipal campground at around 3:30 pm. It didn't appear the campground had wi-fi, so I went in search of some free wi-fi. At a restaurant, a young Chinese girl exteded her personal wi-fi to me so I could make a Skype call to Lorraine. I thanked her for her kindness and she said, "Family is important." I was quite moved by her generosity.

I had the opportunity to take a shower which was an amazing treat!

Tomorrow, we bike to Sparwood, British Columbia.

High Country Inn, Banff, Alberta, Canada to Canyon Campground, Kananaskis Lake, Alberta, Canada

Statistics

Distance: 52.1 miles

Average Speed: 8.3 mph

Hours Riding: 6 hours 11 minutes

Total Ascent: 5023 feet

Total Descent: - 4121 feet

We started out at about 9:30 am, and Lorraine and I had a bittersweet goodbye. I must add that I have an incredible wife.

The sights were beautiful, and our surrounding is remote. It is like a hiking trip with the added benefit of covering more ground on the bike. I had my bear spray at the ready, but there were no bears. I did see a large female deer on the side of Spray Road which had little fear of me.

I rode half the day with David and Gordon, who are both originally from London. Gordon now lives in Aspen; he is also part of the crew. He is our bike mechanic but he does a bit of everything, like most of the crew.

The first part of the day was a dirt trail. Instead of continuing on that dirt trail after lunch, we needed to take a detour to the east side of Spray Lake per the request from the rangers because of the abundance of large predators on the west side. Spray Road is a gravel road.

I rode with Marka and Sean for the second half of the day. They are both part of the crew. I paced myself and took quite a few rest and snack breaks.

We stopped at the visitor center to see where our tent sites were in Canyon Campground. After setting up my tent, I found out there were only two tents allowed per campsite so I had to move it. The arrangements were not ideal because the sites were far from the main gathering and eating area. I was about one quarter mile away so lugging gear around was inconvenient.

We had lentil soup for the post-ride meal and ziti with shrimp and vegetables for the main meal. There was no power at the sites so they set up a charging area in the gear truck. Two grizzlies were spotted near the visitor center and campsites.

Tomorrow, we bike to Elkford in British Columbia.

Banff, Alberta, Canada, day two

We woke at about 6:30 am and continued organizing for the trip. I put my water bottle cages on the bike as well as all my bags. I tightened all bolts and put on my air horn and mirrors too.

The day was a rainy one so we decided to visit the Fairmount Banff Springs hotel which was built in 1888. It is a humongous structure and reminded me of the hotel in the movie "The Shining".

We stopped at the information center and talked to a ranger about using my air horn to alert bears of my presence. She said that is what we used to use before bear spray. She advised using it in places where the path ahead is not visible and when decending quickly.

We had a group meeting at 4 pm. We reviewed logistics, received our maps and riding jerseys and discussed some changes to the original plan. Today, I met Ton and Marga, Harry and Fred from the Netherlands as well as Michael from NJ. We meet for breakfast tomorrow morning at 7 am, get our bags loaded and then we head out.

Banff, Alberta, Canada, day one

We went to bed at 9:30 pm local time, so we woke early as well - 5:45 am. I opened my boxes and started to get things organized. Then we did some research on places to visit and then headed off to breakfast at EI Toro. Lorraine had raspberry crepes, coffee and some water. I had a Spanish omelet, sausage and a glass of orange juice.

We drove up Route 1A until we came to Johnston Canyon. We hiked along the river which flowed through a deep channel.  We came to the lower falls and followed the path through a tunnel. We were close enough to feel the spray.

On the way out we came across two rangers with a table with a grizzly pelt on it, so we stopped talk to them. They told us this grizzly (which looked to be a small one) was killed on the TransCanada Highway. He said it is important to drive the speed limit to reduce these types of tragedies. I asked him about the land bridges that I had heard about. He said they were very helpful in reducing animal deaths on the highway - 95% reduction for ungulates and 80% overall. He recommended bear spray to be used with a bear that is stalking. He also recommended talking to the bear because their prey do not speak to them. They do not see us as a food source, but talking reinforces that view. Also very important is to make noise in bear country so as to not startle the bear. He also said at 100 meters you can take pictures, 30 meters if you are in a car. Problems occur when you are within 10 meters. Then you need to be careful. Back up slowly and don't run. If the bear stalks you need to stand your ground and be ready with bear spray.

We stopped to see Castle Mountain and Cliffs and then we made our way to Lake Louise. The lake was beautiful with a monster glacier as backdrop. We gave some money to a couple who were singing a cappella to support their trip around the world.

When we got back to the hotel, we met some of the crew for the trip. We met Gordon, Allen and Marka. We then went out to Chili's for dinner. We shard chili for an appetizer and I had a strip steak, broccoli, and cole slaw. Lorraine had a shrimp bowl.

When we came back the hotel, Sean, one of the organizers suggested that I bring my bike outside to put back together.  I was relieved to see that all the parts were there and the bike was in good shape. Gordon put my Bike together. He is from London by way of Aspen Colorado.

After the bike was assembled, we went downtown to pick up some bear spray and check out the stores as well as other dining possibilities.